6 Most Common Dangers to Roses and Their Fix

by James Ellison

Most individuals could not defy a rose's beauty and aroma. These flowers are considered a bit hard to grow, but anybody can begin rose gardening in the convenience of their own backyard.
To be sure that your most treasured roses are in the pink or even red of their health, just follow these tips on coping with every rose health perplexity:

1. Black Spots on Foliage

This disease is usually known as black spot. Black spots occur as circular with fringed edges on leaves. They make the leaves yellow. The answer is to get rid of the infected foliage and collect any fallen leaves around the rose. Artificial sprays may be used to stop or treat this type of rose disease.

2. Stunted or distorted young canes

Called powdery mildew, this is a fungal disease that blankets leaves, stems and buds with wind swept white powder. It causes the leaves to roll and become purple. Spray with an organic antifungal to treat this fungal disease that could destroy your rose garden.

3. Injured underside of leaves

A disease of roses called rust is characterized with orange-red blisters that turn black in the fall. In spring, it blisters new sprouts. This disease can even live through winter. What you can do is to pick up and toss away leaves that are infected in the fall. Organic anti-fungal spraying every 5 to 7 days may help.

4. Malformed or stunted leaves and flowers

What probably caused this is the occurrence of spider mites. They are small yellow, red or green spiders on the underside of the foliage. They suck juices from leaves. The application of a strong stream of water may help in treating this infestation.

5. Weak and blotched leaves with tiny white webs under them

This might be the work of aphids. They are tiny soft-bodied insects that are normally brown, green or red. sometimes clumped under leaves and flower buds, they suck plant juices from the delicate buds. a strong stream of water from a garden hose may help roses to endure these bugs.

6. Flowers that don't open or are distorted when they open.

Thrips could be the cause behind this distortion and unopened flowers. It is defined with slender, brown-yellow bugs with bordered wings flourishing in flower buds. These bugs also suck juices from flower buds. You should cut and get rid of the infested flowers. Using neem oil spray may also treat this problem of your roses.

This important information concerning the diseases your roses are inclined to have will prove to be very helpful in making your rose gardening effort more rewarding.

About the Author
Jim's articles are from extensive research on each of his topics. You can learn more of roses by visiting: Rose Garden

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Rugosa Roses - Fragrant, Tough and Handsome Shrub Roses

By Alan Summers

Rugosa Roses are some of the toughest and most handsome shrub roses available. They are fragrant, black spot and mildew resistant and are vigorous growers - blooming recurrently throughout the season. Rugosa Roses can be distinguished from other roses by their tough, textured, deeply veined foliage and erect spiny stems. In contrast to their foliage, the blooms of the Rugosa Roses appears very fragile, almost like silk that has been crinkled.

Rugosas prefer light, sandy soil in full sun to partial shade, making them especially suited for seashore planting. Rugosa Roses tolerate both salt and drought. Rugosas require no spraying for disease and little fertilization. Unlike other roses, deer never touch Rugosas. In autumn Rugosas have beautiful, orange-red hips, rich in vitamin C, which attract wildlife and are useful for jelly. Rugosa Roses are ideal for hedges and planted in masses for erosion control, especially in sand dunes.

Originally from China, Japan and Korea, Rugosa Roses come in a variety of sizes and colors - white, several shades of pink and red to almost purple. This week we are featuring the most disease resistant Rugosa of them all - a rose with single, pastel pink blooms on a neat compact plant - Fru Dagmar Hastrup.

Fru Dagmar Hastrup - The Most Sought After Rugosa Rose

Created in Denmark in 1914, Fru Dagmar Hastrup is loved for its abundance of cherry red hips in the fall and its elegant pink blooms that emit a sweet clove-like fragrance. Its blooms will reach two to three inches across and repeat exceptionally well throughout the season and it has the unusual ability to display hips and blooms concurrently. The rich, green foliage will turn maroon and then gold in the fall. Fru Dagmar will reach only four feet tall and wide. A lovely addition to any garden.

Planting and Care

• For best results plant in spring or fall.

• Prefers a light, sandy soil in full sun to partial shade. Remarkably tolerant of shade and heavy clay soil.

• Fertilize with Rose-Tone.

• Deer resistant.

• Hardy in Zones 3-9. Click here to learn more about Rugosa Roses on the Carroll Gardens website.
  

Alan Summers, president of Carroll Gardens, Inc., has over 30 years experience in gardening and landscape design. He has made Carroll Gardens one of America’s preeminent nurseries, having introduced more than 20 new perennials and woody shrubs over the years and reintroduced numerous “lost” cultivars back to American gardeners.

Carroll Gardens publishes a weekly online newsletter written by Alan. It contains valuable gardening advice and tips and answers to customer questions.

Every Saturday, Alan hosts a call-in gardening forum on WCBM radio - 680 AM. For those outside of the WCBM listening area, they can listen to radio show via the internet.

Visit CarrollGardens.com to learn more about Carroll Gardens, the weekly newsletter and the radio show.

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Choosing the Right Roses

By Steve Welker

There are an extremely large number of rose varieties available at this time, most of these varieties are suitable to raise in your home garden. With so many different types to choose from deciding which roses to grow can seem more like a difficult task than a part of the fun of growing roses. By keeping just a few important factors in mind you can simplify this task and put the fun back into selecting your roses.

Color

How will a particular color of rose look in your garden, be sure to look at other peoples gardens and in magazines to see how different color arrangements work together. For some people the color of the roses will not be a very important consideration for others it will be one of the most important. Either way you will need to be sure that the color will complement the other colors in your garden and not clash with what you already have in place.

Size

Size will also be an important factor, how will the roses look in your garden once they have grown to their full height. Can your garden aesthetically support twenty-foot roses or will you need to stick with a species that only grows to about eight feet high. You will need to measure your garden before you start looking for roses. You will need to know the width and height of your garden to aid in selecting the proper roses. Your roses will need adequate room to grow and will need enough exposure to sunlight and air to thrive. If you have limited space you might want to consider growing miniature roses instead. Miniature roses require much less space and our easy to care for and maintain.

Climate

While characteristics that deal with the visual appeal of roses like the height and color are important the most important considerations are the ones that deal with how well the roses will be able to thrive. The climate that the rose needs for proper growth is one of these, if the climate the rose needs does not match with your local climate these roses will never grow very well. For example if you live in an area that has long cold winters you will need to select varieties of roses that can tolerate cold weather.

Maintenance

How much time do you want to spend maintaining your roses? Do you live in your garden or are you a busy individual that only has small amounts of time to devote to their garden. Some roses require very high levels of maintenance, while these roses are quiet beautiful and would be a stunning addition to any garden you have to have the time and dedication to make them thrive. If you select a high maintenance rose and do not devote the necessary time to them you will be very disappointed with the results. There are roses on the market today known as "Modern Roses"; these are beautiful plants with a great fragrance and long lasting blooms. However they are also prone to disease and very high maintenance.

On the other hand you have "Old Garden Roses" these plants may not be quite as beautiful as the modern roses but they have been specially bred to be very disease prune and to only require minimal maintenance and care. They usually bloom for several months at a time and also have a very strong and pleasant scent. This strong scent can cause problems for people with allergies to fragrances. If that could be an issue for you should consider "shrub roses", these are also long blooming plants with a strong resistance to disease without the strong fragrance.

If this is your first time attempting to raise roses you might want to consider "landscape roses", they are very easy to care for and disease resistant. Landscape roses will add a great deal of beauty to any garden. If you have trellises around your home you might want to consider one of the varieties of climbing roses. These are very similar to landscape roses except that they grow upward like a vine.

Everything you ever wanted to know about Growing Roses at http://www.rose-gardening.us

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Dramatically Change Your Garden with a Climbing Rose

by Alan Summers

William Baffin

There is no investment, for less money, that will so dramatically change the appearance of a garden or landscape than a properly placed climbing rose. You can probably recall any number of beautiful magazine images of sunny, rose-covered arbors or a rose-covered lattice framing at a home's front door. Climbing roses are extremely versatile garden performers. You can choose to let them artfully climb vertical structures, leisurely tumble over a picket fence or carefully train them on horizontal fence rails to create a narrow hedge. This week we are featuring a climbing rose - William Baffin - the most reliable of all the medium to deep pink climbers.

William Baffin, a Canadian developed variety that is just about the best of the renowned Explorer series of roses, has been proven in thousands of gardens over many seasons for its colorful reblooming, low maintenance requirements, excellent disease resistance, unusual cold hardiness and salt tolerance. You will be rewarded with big color from clusters of up to 30, double, strawberry-pink 2 1/2 inch blooms that are moderately fragrant. Clusters of small orangeed hips follow in the autumn and remain into winter, until relished by the local bird population. Beautiful, glossy, green foliage that is totally resistant to diseases, acts as a backdrop for the blooms. William Baffin matures at 10-15 feet, making it ideal for a trellis or arbor. Although bred in Ontario Canada, William Baffin performs equally well as far south as Florida.

Planting and Care

• For best results plant in the fall or spring. Fall planting works particularly well with William Baffin.
• Plant in full sun for best blooms, but will tolerate partial shade.
• Plant in well-drained, compost enriched soil.
• Mulch well the first winter.
• Pruning and shaping, when necessary, should be accomplished after the initial spring bloom.
• Fertilize with Rose-Tone monthly from early spring until late summer.
• Hardy in Zones 4-9.

Visit http://www.carrollgardens.com/roses/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=420-08-12584" to view William Baffin Climbing Rose on the Carroll Gardens website.

About the Author
Alan Summers, president of Carroll Gardens, Inc., has over 30 years experience in gardening and landscape design. He has made Carroll Gardens one of America's preeminent nurseries.

Visit http://www.carrollgardens.com/emailsignup.asp to sign up for the Carroll Gardens weekly enewsletter.

Visit http://www.carrollgardens.com/ to learn more.

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Spring Rose Care - The Easy Way

by Alan Summers

Spring rose care will help get your roses off to a more enjoyable blooming season. Modern roses are the longest blooming of all shrubs. Many varieties start flowering in mid-late spring, with recurrent bloom cycles through late fall. Unless you are looking to grow absolutely perfect blossoms for competitive exhibition, roses actually require much less work than you may usually read about. Carefully chosen varieties of shrub roses will - with no summer spraying - yield a full season's bounty of blooms.

Spring Rose Care - Timing
Spring rose care should be accomplished after winterkill (if any) has become apparent, but before the new leaves unfurl. There are several ways to figure this. I've found it is most successful to work on the roses just as the Forsythia starts to bloom, rather than slavishly following the calendar.

Spring Rose Care - Feeding
If you hilled-up your roses with mulch last fall, the first thing you need to do is to tear down the mulch mounds and spread it around the roses so that the total mulch depth never exceeds 1 ½ inches. If you have more, remove the top layer. The first spring rose care fertilization consists of four different products, a handful of each should be sprinkled around the plant in a circle, about 12-18 inches out from the stem: Espoma Rose-Tone®, Espoma Kelp Meal®, Espoma Epson Plus and Greensand (Five additional feedings, a month apart, consist of just one handful of Rose-Tone®--nothing else Never feed after September 1st; late feeding encourages late emergence of tender growth, which will be winterkilled). Use 1/3 to 1/2 as much of all products, at all times, on miniature roses.

Spring Rose Care - Pruning
Pruning is usually considered to be the most time-consuming of all rose care tasks. Recently, a research study compared 2 beds of the same Floribunda roses. One bed was hand pruned by skilled rose growers. The other was pruned with a combination of a power hedge trimmer and a lawn mower raised up on huge wheels. Throughout the season, the two groups were compared for flower production. Guess which plot did the best. Hint: it wasn't the hand pruned plot. Carefully chosen roses are much tougher and more forgiving then most people realize. At any rate, spring rose care pruning is not difficult if you keep the following points in mind:

• You will need five good tools: sharp by-pass pruners, by-pass loppers, small pruning saw, elbow length (gauntlet) leather or rubber/plastic impregnated gloves, and safety goggles.
  
• Over-pruning roses in spring tends to weaken the plant. Never prune away more than one-third of the live growth.
  
• On all roses, remove diseased, dead and broken canes. A cane that has blackened from winterkill, or suffered physical damage, should be shortened to an inch below the offending section.
  
• Where possible, cut on a 45 degree angle.
  
• Once-blooming (as opposed to recurrent-blooming) roses require no further pruning in the spring. These are primarily antique roses and old-fashioned ramblers. Do whatever additional pruning necessary after blooming in early July.
  
• Reduce hybrid tea roses to 4-5 vigorous canes not shorter than 30 inches. Grandifloras should be reduced to 5-6 canes not shorter than 36 inches. Reduce floribundas to 7 to 8 canes not shorter than 24 inches. In general, try to achieve a vase-shaped plant for most roses in these categories.
  
• Especially on hybrid teas and grandifloras, cut 1/4 inch above an outward facing bud. Cut so the 45 degree angle allows water to drain away from, rather than into the bud.
  
• Mini roses, shrub roses, rugosa roses and repeat blooming antique roses just need a haircut, trimming them to size.
  
• Treat English roses and romantica roses as grandifloras.
  
• Trim modern climbing roses and pillar roses to shape. Aged canes should be removed, as should those that grow away from the support or criss-cross awkwardly. Massive rejuvenation pruning is best postponed until early July and done, if at all, every 3 to 5 years.
  
• To prevent cane borer, put a dab of Nubark™ Rose Stick on the cut wound of any cut branch greater than pencil thickness.
  
• To discourage diseases and insects, rake up and discard all pruned material, including leaves, with the trash.
  

Spring Rose Care - Spraying
On roses that have been troubled by fungus diseases a spray of lime sulphur during spring rose care will kill the over-wintered spores of blackspot and mildew. Mixing the lime sulphur with horticultural oil will control a broader range of pests. To achieve full effectiveness from the oil, this spray must be applied on a day when it is not going to freeze the following night. Spray the roses to the dripping point and spray all the surrounding mulch. This spray must be applied when the roses are still dormant--before they start to leaf out. During the next few days, top dress with enough mulch so that total coverage is 2 to 2 ½ inches. As roses leaf out, occasionally they are troubled by green aphids on the tips. These are easily controlled with insecticidal soap.
About the Author

Alan Summers, president of Carroll Gardens, Inc., has over 30 years experience in gardening and landscape design. He has made Carroll Gardens one of America's preeminent nurseries.

Visit http://www.carrollgardens.com/emailsignup.asp to sign up for the Carroll Gardens weekly enewsletter.

Visit http://www.carrollgardens.com/ to learn more.

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Tools For Gardening Roses

By Kim Beck

Roses unlike many flowers require more attention and care to insure that your roses are the most beautiful they can be. They also require you have some basic tools that will make your gardening of roses easier. Here is a list of the tools you should have on hand.

Pruners - Pruners are used almost on a daily basis. Actually there are two types of pruners, the "anvil pruner" and the "bypass pruner". I would recommend always using the bypass pruners, this type will not crush the canes and stems of the roses. As your roses age you will find a need to remove or cut back old thick canes. These can be thick and will require you have a pair of "Loppers".

Gloves - You will be thankful from day one that you invested in a good pair of leather work gloves, if you can find them get the kind that have the fold-down cuffs. The cloth gloves for basic gardening have their place but it's not in the rose garden.
Shovels - Shovels that are lightweight, with fiberglass throats and strong handles that are padded are great choices. Here's were spending the extra dollars will save you in blisters and dollars over the long haul.

Wheelbarrow - This may seam like such a simple thing but so many people are tempted to purchase those fancy gardening carts that "do it all" in the garden but believe me when I tell you there is no substitute for a good old fashion wheelbarrow. They will haul everything in and out of your rose garden you come across.

Kneeling Pads - There is no getting around this, if you garden you are going to be on your knees. There are some choices here, the standard knee pads work fine for most and when you move to a new spot they move with you. The kneeling pads for gardening come in several sizes and are quiet comfy on the knees. There are also kneeling pads that come on short kneeling blocks with handles. With so many choices your sure to find the right one for you.

Rakes - There are basically tow types you will want to have, a garden rake and a leaf rake. The garden rake have steel tines and are used for leveling and smoothing the garden bed. Leaf rakes are need to remove leaves and debris from the garden, I recommend having two sizes here the regular size leaf rake and the smaller head leaf rake for getting those tight places.

Watering Wands - One of the first things you will want your watering wand to have is brass fittings instead of plastic, they will last you alot longer than the small increase in cost. If you can find a wand that has a shut off valve on the wand itself you find this to be very convenient. Watering wands are great for really giving your roses a good root soaking. If you have roses growing in containers then a watering wand is just what is needed.

Gardening Fork - This is a must have for the avid rose gardener. Be sure to choose a quality one with steel forks and a padded sturdy handle, this will make turning and loosening the ground around the base of your roses much easier.

Having all these tools will make your love for gardening roses much easier and enjoyable. You will enjoy years of beautiful roses.

Kim writes for Gardening Tips For Roses. Find all the tips, advice, resources and information for gardening roses all in one spot. Visit http://www.gardeningtipsroses.com/